South Africa: Durban
I didn’t know much about Durban, South Africa before I got there. I knew it was on the coast, that it was warmer than Cape Town, and that I was attending a wedding about an hour and forty five minutes away in the Midlands. It’s also where Nicara is from.
Staying with Nicara’s Family
Nicara and her family took me in like I was a part of theirs. They picked me up from the airport, and that first morning her mom put out an enormous breakfast. Saying no to more wasn’t really an option. Your plate somehow stayed full like it was magic. I ate more than my body could handle and probably didn’t need to eat for the rest of the day.
That afternoon, Nicara, her dad, and I headed to the beach. I ran four miles along the coast while they walked. Running in a new country is always one of my favorite things to do. In a similar vein of visiting a country’s grocery store for the first time. On the way back we stopped at the best fish and chips place in the area for their fries. They were delicious.
The Wedding
The next day we drove out to the Midlands for the wedding. Nicara’s license had expired, so I was othe driver. Luckily, her parents had an automatic car, which is relatively rare since most vehicles there are manual. We also did not have to get away from a baboon this time. The weeding venue was about an hour and forty five minutes from her parent’s house.
The Midlands is located about halfway between Durban and Johannesburg. The landscape out there was nothing like the rest of what I’d seen. Green hills, farms, and mist settling over everything. I was getting the full sense of the geographic diversity of the country: the mountains and coastline of Cape Town, the bush and dust of Kruger, the density of Johannesburg, and the beaches and rolling hills around Durban.
The wedding was at Bellwood Cottages, a venue tucked into the hills. The ceremony itself was set back in a pine forest, with needles covering the ground and logs for seats. Just trees and the smell of pine. Also, perfect weather.
During the ceremony, my friend Jess and her now husband couldn’t take their eyes off each other the entire time. Whatever the priest was saying, which wasn’t great, they weren’t hearing it. He was quite the chauvinist and spoke about the differences between men and women. About how men should not be disturbed while watching soccer and a bunch of other things I don’t remember. During the sermon, I caught the eye of Robynee as she stood next to Jess in disbelief.
The reception was back by the cottages, set beside the pond. The light was already starting to change by the time we got there, with the soft glow of golden hour approaching. The first dance was one of the best I’ve ever seen. I haven’t been to many weddings, so my frame of reference is limited. Her husband is of Indian descent, so there was some Indian music, not nearly enough Afrobeats considering we were in Africa, and a lot of American pop. The food was great. Overall, it didn’t feel too dissimilar from a wedding in the United States.
Exploring the Midlands
The morning before the ceremony, Nicara and I stopped at Blueberry Cafe, not too far from the venue. I’m not sure what I expected, but it wasn’t alpacas, Nguni cattle, ostriches wandering the property, and incredible views.
The day after the wedding, Nicara, Robynne, and I drove to the Nelson Mandela Capture Site. It’s where Mandela was arrested in 1962 after spending seventeen months underground. There’s a museum and monument there, including a steel sculpture of his face made from dozens of vertical rods. From up close it looks abstract. As you walk away, his face slowly comes into focus. It was a really impactful sculpture and an incredible museum filled with the history of apartheid. It wasn’t a huge museum, but there was a lot to read and watch, and we still spent nearly two hours there.
We had lunch in Pietermaritzburg on the way back at a cute restaruant that doubled as a nursery. Then spent the evening at Nicara’s house with a braai and we played my first game of croquet. Honestly, it’s kind of a fun game.
Beaches, Bunny Chow, and Board Games
Our last full day was another beach day. We dropped Robynne off in the morning and then we spent about five hours there. We had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the ocean, and took our time enjoying the day.
That evening we walked around Moses Mabhida Stadium, built for the 2010 World Cup. I knew it was one of Durban’s landmarks only because Nicara kept talking about it, but I wasn’t prepared for how striking it was, made even more so at sunset. The massive arch rises above the stadium and catches the light in just the right way. Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside. I tried to sweet talk the security guard, but to no avail. There’s a funicular that takes people along the arch to the top, but it is currently under renovation. Once it reopens, it would be amazing to do.
We also stopped by Nicara’s sister’s apartment which is not too far from the stadium. When it’s lit up at night, you can see it from her rear window.
Dinner was bunny chow, prepared by Nicara’s mom. Durban’s famous curry served inside a hollowed out loaf of bread. I was still full from breakfast.
One Last Stop
On my last morning we visited uShaka Aquarium. It’s built around the idea of a series of sunken ships, so you’re walking through what feels like an underwater wreck while looking up through the water at fish and sharks swimming overhead. The light filtering through the tanks made the whole place feel surprisingly immersive. For a city aquarium, it was impressive.
Then they dropped me off at the airport, and that was the end of my South African trip.
Final Thoughts
My trip to South Africa was incredible, and Durban was the perfect place to end it.
Cape Town gave me incredible scenery.
Johannesburg gave me history.
Durban gave me people.
Check out my other blog posts on the trip
South Africa: Getting There & Back