It’s been eighteen years since I’ve last visited Florida. The last time was in sixth or seventh grade, when my family took a trip to Disney World. My twin sister had just broken her ankle, testing out the skim board I had just got for my birthday, and the trip was tied to her dance school. Now, all these years later, my friend Pat from high school lives there.
Pat moved to Florida a few years ago and since then, has had countless friends visiting. Over the years, he has asked me when I was coming to visit, but I never had the chance. I was busy studying a Master’s degree for the last three years and my winter breaks were spent at home with my family. One summer was spent in Washington D.C for an internship, while the other I had to be at school for classes (the half a year of the program). Having graduated without a job lined up in May, I finally had the time. On June 22nd when Pat said, “you should come visit”, I said “I will” and we made plans for the weekend of July 19th.
Our lives couldn’t be more different and it is amazing to see where he is now. After undergrad, I spent seven and a half years teaching English. Now, having just earned my master’s degree, I have little to my name beyond student debt. Pat on the other hand, has worked nonstop over the last 11 years, living in Manhattan after grad school for several years, and now Florida. He now lives in Jupiter and the house he lives in he bought during Covid and put a lot of work in redoing it. Seeing his home after hearing so much about it during the process was a real treat. I also got to meet his girlfriend, whom I’d heard so much about.
Jupiter and its beaches
I can’t speak for all of Florida, only the parts I saw, but I was amazed at how green it was. From the moment I stepped out of the airport l, I was transported back to my childhood trip to Disney. The oppressive humidity smacks you in the face and rows of palm trees lining the streets. I was amazed by the abundance of greenery, blooming flowers, tropical plants and trees. It felt even greener than Puerto Rico. On our last night, we played a mini golf course walking distance from his house, and while the holes weren’t anything special, the surrounding palm trees and vibrant greenery made it feel like we were in the middle of a jungle.
We only went to one beach during my visit and it was beautiful. With free parking right next to it, the beach had Caribbean-blue water and find white sand. It’s the Atlantic Ocean, so I wonder what makes the water different compared to the beaches back on Long Island. It’s the same ocean, after all. Our first attempt to enjoy the beach was cut short after just 30 minutes due to an approaching storm. Driving back in Pat’s roofless jeep as we got caught in a downpour was quite the adventure.
Later that day, after driving around Palm Beach, we went back to the beach and enjoyed a few hours of sun. If it wasn’t for the rain, there was no way we could have stayed at the beach long. It was hot; the sand was scorching and we didn’t have any shade.
Restaurants and bars
One of the best things about Florida is the weather and this is beautifully reflected in its architecture. Almost every bar and restaurant seem to blur the line between indoors and outdoors. The disappearance of the wall creates the feeling of sitting outside while being inside. It creates a connection to nature, a welcoming and lovely atmosphere, as well as the added benefit of being in the fresh air.
This was probably one of my favorite aspects of the trip. It’s just more enjoyable to be outside. It’s one of the reasons people love Paris, sitting in a cafe, under a veranda on a tree-lined street sipping coffee. Florida offers a similar feeling, but instead of people drinking coffee, it’s cocktails.
Some of the restaurants we visited:
Squared Grouper: An iconic spot in Jupiter night life, right on Jupiter inlet. My mom had been here a few times and insisted that I had to check it out. Luckily it was already on Pat’s itinerary, so I didn’t have to worry. We visited twice, the first night just to check it out and the second night when they had live music. It’s basically an all-outdoor venue with a patio-like covering over the bar area, creating a laid-back tropical vibe.
U-Tiki: Just a short walk from the Squared Grouper. This restaurant is also on the Jupiter inlet. During my Florida visit, which was considered low season due to summer, U-Tiki still had an hour and fifteen-minute wait. While we were waiting, we took a 30-minute pontoon ride around the inlet. It was fantastic; the sun was setting and it was a beautiful night. U-Tiki is gorgeously designed. A well-covered sitting area opens up to a palm tree dotted outdoor area that at night is beautifully lit up with string lights wrapped around them.
Top Side at the Beacon: Next to U-Tiki is the Beacon, a high-end restaurant with a second-floor open-air bar that overlooks the Jupiter inlet and lighthouse. The views were incredible and it was just nice to be outside with the ocean air breeze.
Planta: A vegan restaurant in West Palm Beach. While I’m not vegan, I am vegetarian, so Pat found a vegan place to have lunch. It was the first time for both him and his girlfriend and it didn’t disappoint. At least to me, it was amazing. I think they enjoyed, although I’m not sure if they’ll eat at a vegan restaurant again.
They had vegan sushi that was made with dehydrated watermelon in some type of sauce. He said that if he had eaten it with his eyes closed, he wouldn’t have been able to tell that it wasn’t tuna sushi. We didn’t sit outside because it was too hot and out of all restaurants or bars we went to, this one had more of a division between the inside and outside, a traditional division. The interior however, was tastefully decorated and designed–magazine worthy.
El Camino: A lively Mexican restaurant above Planta in downtown West Palm Beach. We only stayed for a drink, but it was a lively spot with an indoor and outdoor bar area. I had a habanero margarita, one of the few drinks I’ve had over the last five years.
Palm Beach
Palm beach is probably one of the wealthiest areas in the U.S. A quick Google search mentions that it is home to at least 58 billionaires with a combined wealth of $500 billion. The waterfront homes are some of the biggest I’ve ever seen. A quick glance at Zillow showed a 1,400 square foot house with three bedrooms and two bathrooms going for $7.5 million.
The shopping district consists of high-end retail and restaurants. It’s built in a Spanish colonial style mixed with an Italian village/Venetian style. Small charming courtyards and narrow alleyways centered around fountains and flanked by lush greenery create a sense of discovery as you wander through the shopping district. It’s like walking through an old Italian or Spanish city. Surprisingly, it doesn’t come off as a cheap imitation. It’s thoughtfully executed and fits perfectly within the setting.
Within Palm Beach is the Henry Flagler Museum.
Who was Henry Flagler?
He was a founding partner of Standard Oil and yet, for some reason, his name is far less known than Rockefeller. He was the man that built Florida. They say no single person has had the effect on a single state or area as much as Henry Flagler did with Florida. The transportation infrastructure, the tourism and agriculture industry that he established remain even today. The development of Miami is attributed to him and his railway. He encouraged fruit farming and settlement along the train line and made many gifts to build hospitals, churches and schools in Florida. Prior to my visit to the museum, I knew nothing about him. I’ve never even heard his name mentioned alongside any of “the men who built America.” But now I know, I’m surprised they don’t have a holiday for him down there.
The museum is housed in his former winter mansion, Whitehall. Built during the Guided Age, it is the embodiment of decadence. No expense was spared in the 100,000 square foot, 75 room mansion that mimics the great palaces of Europe. It was designed by John Carrere and Thomas Hastings, apprentices of McKim, Mead & White, the same architects of the demolished Penn Station in NYC, Whitehall is of a similar Beau arts style, influenced by the classical forms of Roman and Greek architecture. The main entrance shares similarities to a Greek temple, like it was lifted from the Acropolis itself.
Once inside, the grandeur continues. Built around a central courtyard, the house consists of two floors, an attic and a basement. The ground floor consists of grand public rooms, each done in the style of a specific period, a dance hall inspired by the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles, a music room with the largest residential organ, a library, a dining hall, a sitting room gilded with aluminum-which at the time was more expensive than gold and countless precious art and sculptures. The second floor consists of many guest rooms, each in their own color adorned with expensive wallpaper and rugs, the servants’ rooms and private offices. His private sleeping train sits outside next to the building. Reminiscent of an era before planes.
My trip to Florida was a nice change of pace. Getting to visit an old friend and spend time together was the highlight of it all. From exploring the beautiful area, he now calls home to learning a bit about Florida’s history and just relaxing by the water. It was great to see how happy he is. I’m glad I finally had the opportunity to visit.
Great story JOE, glad you had such a good time!! reminded me of the fun times I used to have on my trips there!!